How to Wire Wrap Jewelry
I get asked this once a week and I give everyone a different answer depending on their skill level but there are some things I say that are universal.
Most people don't like my initial answer; I tell them to go for a walk and pick up a handful of rocks they think are pretty. Then head over to the hardware store or craft store and pick up some wire. 22 gauge preferably but 20g or 18g will work for this exercise. Find a pair of needle nose pliers (gasp yes I said needle nose) that you have in your toolbox and spend a few days trying to capture the stones so you can put them on a necklace.
What you end up with will probably be the ugliest things you have ever seen, comparable to a horror movie. That's good! The point is not to be perfect. The point is an exploration of the medium with no judgments. Get a feel for the energy of wire. It is a force that works according to its own physics.
This is not just an exercise in frustration. It is a way to get a feel for the curve of a stone and what the wire does when faced with it. It shows you the brittle qualities, chances are you will snap a few wires. It also shows you the essence of wire.
Find a local bead store, LBS, and buy the following:
- Round nose pliers
- Needle nose pliers
- Flat nose pliers
- Crimping pliers (yes, I use them for wire wrapping)
- Handheld needle file
- Flush cutters (keep these only for your wire, never cut beading wire or anything else with them)
- 4-inch bench block
- Domed hammer
That is the beauty of wire wrap design, your tools are so much less expensive than a metal artist and you can fit them all into a small box. That is until you get seriously addicted and wire consumes your workspace. Check out my article on Wire Wrapping Tools.
You need wire in various gauges, I like to practice in copper. You can start with round wire to practice but if you are aiming for border wraps then you will want square and half round. Square holds it's shaping when next to other wires bound together and half round is what you use to bind with. So the list below is for both but just buy the round if what you want to focus on is wrapping beads and making links etc. I still wrap many cabs in round but I like the challenge. Check out my article on Wire.
- 18 gauge round for clasps and thick links
- 20, 22 gauge round for wrapping beads and stones, making ear wires.
- 26 and 28 gauge for weaving beads, crocheting viking knit
- 22 and 20 gauge square
- 22 gauge 1/2 round to start
The next step can be done throughout this entire process. Go looking. Search Etsy for wire wrapped jewelry. Don't forget Pinterest! Hit up jewelry forums on Facebook and look in their files, especially wire forums. See what people are making and get an idea of what you would like to make. This is not to copy people's designs but to get a feel for the style you are attracted to. Do you like fine wire weaves, big hammered wire, small gemmy stones, large cabochons, clean lines or funky statements? Get an idea of what you like and then focus on that. If you make what you like and are attracted to you will discover your style.
Here are a few links of jewelry making forum groups, I am an owner of the first one.
Jewelry Makers and Bead Lovers
Szarka's GROUP
Now head out and look at free tutorials. There are some amazing artists out there that sell tuts for a living and many have beginner tuts for free.
Magpie Gemstones
Studio Heath
Wigjig
I could go on and on but why reinvent the wheel? I just goggled free wire wrap tutorials and Mei has a great list on her blog
And that is what I tell them. Play with the wire. Learn what it does and figure out what you want it to do and just keep twisting.
All articles may be copied but Magpie Gemstones and Szarka must be listed as the author and hyperlinked back to this site.